Located on the cusp of a chic intown neighborhood and an industrial area, The Dog House calls itself a shack and means it. But a more sincere shack you've never laid eyes on, all painted up as it is in turquoise and violet pink with a bright yellow awning and whimsical dog sculptures for decoration. Strictly a carryout business, the Dog House provides a couple of picnic tables -- more subdued but cheerily painted -- under the shade of a corrugated metal roof held down with old tires should you care to enjoy your meal on the spot. We were invited to "tour" the kitchen in all its one-room glory and found a tiny and clean operation going on behind the "Place Your Order" and "Pick Up Here" window screens.

Open since early 2002, the Dog House, with its amiable and accommodating staff of three or four, is fast becoming a favorite place for catfish, wonderfully rich chopped pork, hot wings in sauces mild to wild, and, naturally, excellent beef hot dogs. In a heartfelt nod to the adjacent chic neighborhood, the menu offers a smoked BBQ tofu sandwich. Some things you wouldn't ordinarily expect to see, such as a hickory- smoked goat and a whiting sandwich, prove the plucky adventuresome spirit of owner Charlie, who has named a wonderfully chock-full and somewhat messy hot dog for himself. If you've a hankering for a juicy, whole BBQ chicken, you'll find it here. Maybe it's a smoked catfish sandwich you crave and you didn't even know it. No problem. You can find fries and burgers and a bowl of chili too, plus baked beans (veggie or meat), fried okra, onion rings and corn-on-the-cob. Large orders can be delivered to your door, regardless, it seems, of where said door is located. "We'll take it to the moon if the order's big enough," the jolly chef tells us with a wink. You can take your turkey or ham or any meat you please and they'll smoke it for you at $1 per pound. Combination lunch specials are available until 3PM. -- Judith Augustine